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Check out the car you are buying
with these easy to follow steps.
Outside
Firstly, take a walk around
the car and take it all in. Unless you've been told otherwise,
the car should be in a driveable state.
You should always start the car with a cold engine, as this
is when it's easiest to spot starting problems or excessive
smoke. Place a hand on the bonnet - if it's warm, it's been
run recently, so let it cool for a few hours. If need be, come
back later.
Let the seller show you the car, but don't let them distract
you from carrying out your own checks.
Crouch down in front of each front wheel and look along the
length of the car. Both front wheels should be directly in front
of the rear if they're not, it could mean the car has been
in a crash with a slightly twisted chassis. This is known as
crabbing.
The wheels should sit neatly in the wheel arches, equally
on both sides.
Check the gaps between the panels are equal. Run your finger
along each to feel if the gap is bigger at one end than the
other. Uneven panel gaps occur if a car has been in a crash,
or if panels have been refitted badly.
Look carefully at each panel for ripples or overspray where
excess paint has flecked onto other trim, such as window seals
or bumpers.
Look closely at each tyre including the spare. Watch for
uneven wear, which could mean suspension damage, nicks and gouges.
Tyres are expensive, so if they need replacing, use this as
a bargaining tool.
The minimum tread depth is 1.6mm for the whole way around
the tyre. Use a tread depth gauge to see how much is left
the more, the better.
Check under the car, particularly at the front and back, under
the bonnet and under the carpet in the boot for signs of crash
damage. Panels should be flat, and free from signs of welding
or patching up if they're not, it's probably had a shunt.
Most shunts are minor, low-speed crashes, but you should take
extra steps to be sure there aren't any more serious problems.
Obviously rust is a bad sign, so keep your eye out all the
time, especially around the wheel arches where moisture, grime
and winter road salt can increase the speed of deterioration.
For more information on checking your tyre pressure, read our
money-saving tip.
Inside
There are plenty of things to check inside, as well, most of
which can be a good indication of mileage and the amount of
care and attention it's had lavished on it.
Look around the cabin a 50,000 mile car shouldn't have a
worn or sagging seat or a steering wheel, gear knob or pedal
covers which have been worn by lots of use.
Make sure all the seatbelts work they could indicate a previous
crash or general neglect. They're a legal requirement too
if the car is being sold with a new MOT certificate, alarm bells
should be ringing as these should have been checked.
Look closely at the dashboard binnacle (the bit which houses
the speedometer and other dials). If the car has an older, mechanical-style
milometer which turns as you drive, make sure all the barrels
are aligned correctly turning these back is the oldest trick
in the book. If there are fingerprints in there, ask why there
could be an honest explanation.
This is harder to check on more modern models which have electronic
milometers the miles can be turned back simply by connecting
a laptop and entering a new mileage.
Either way, make sure the mileage tallies with old MOT certificates
and service history.
Make sure all the dashboard and steering column panels are
bolted on correctly they could point to a clocked car, or
one which has been stolen, particularly if there are glass fragments
on the floor.
Dont be too quick to reject a car it can be tricky to bolt
a dash back together after changing a blown bulb in the instrument
panel.
Make sure all the switches work including the heater or
air-con - and check the front seats move about properly.
Locate the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). You'll find
this riveted in the engine bay. There are few reasons why this
should have been removed, so be suspicious if there are signs
of tampering, you could be looking at a clone a stolen car
given the identity of a write-off. Visit our safety and security
centre for more information.
The VIN number will also be stamped in the floor beside the
driver or passenger seat. A clone will have another number welded
on, and are usually quite easy to swap.
Modern cars also have the VIN recorded at the base of the
windscreen.
Check all the numbers match the logbook and your Car History
Check documents if they don't, walk away.
Under the bonnet
Next check under the bonnet any problems you miss here could
cost you a packet, so be thorough. Read our basic car checks
page more for details on how to do this.
Check for signs of oil leaks around the top of the engine,
but dont forget to check underneath as this will be where it's
most obvious. Road grime can stick to oil, making it even more
noticeable.
Remove the dipstick, wipe it with a cloth and replace for
a couple of seconds. Pull it out again and look at the amount
of oil it should be near the top; if not, the owner hasnt
been looking after it.
The oil should be a golden colour sludgy black oil is a
sign the engine could be damaged.
Look around the oil filler cap for a white mayonnaise-like
substance - this is an indication of a damaged head gasket which
can be very expensive to put right.
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